Tori Taylor-Roberts
Climbing Instructor
Tori considers the boundaries within the outdoor community and how important it is to have attainable role models. We draw upon her experience in the climbing industry to discuss the reality of being an outdoor instructor. Her infectious energy and positivity reminds us that people aren’t inherently strong climbers, everyone starts from somewhere.
COULD YOU TELL ME A BIT ABOUT YOURSELF?
I’ve been actively working in the outdoors industry since about 2007, which is when I left university and started following that career path. Although I guess I got into it before that, on my first day at Exeter college. I turned up having enrolled on Spanish, French and English or maybe Media and changed my mind at the last minute. I decided I wanted to do something I enjoy, so I chose to do outdoor education. Everyone asked if I was sure but I haven’t really looked back since.
WOULD YOU SAY YOU GREW UP IN AN OUTDOORSY ENVIRONMENT?
No, probably not actually. My parents liked going on Sunday bike rides and walks on the moors, but that was about as far as it went. I guess I was active and into traditional sports, I was really quite competitive.
Actually, I remember the day I lost my competitive side, I think it was year nine. It was sports day and I started on the inside lane, 200 metre sprints. I was proud of my sprinting, couldn’t do long distance for the life of me but I liked to run. Anyway, all the other girls cut in by the first corner. Kirsty Miles, I even remember her name, she tripped me over! She was in the lane next to me and tripped me over. When we got to the finish line I said to the teacher “So rerun? Obviously, because we have to stay in our lane” and they said “No, we haven’t got time”. So, I came last. And that was it. I decided I’m never competing again. It kind of stuck with me, which was probably a good thing.
DO YOU EVER FEEL COMPETITIVE WHEN YOU’RE CLIMBING NOW?
No. I mean, it’s one of those conversations that you probably have quite a lot on the wall and out on the crags, but I think what draws me to climbing is the fact that you’re competing with yourself. Hopefully most people compete with themselves rather than with others. When it comes to wall competitions I think there’s a healthy element of competition, so it’s there if you want it. But ultimately, it should be about bettering yourself. Or at least that’s what it is for me anyway.
I think competitive mindsets can be quite dangerous. There’s often this feeling that everyone is watching you on a wall which makes some people feel uncomfortable. The reality is, for the most part, if people actually are watching you, which they’re probably not, it should be a compliment! If I watch someone it’s because I want to see their beta to benefit me, or to learn, not to belittle or criticise their climbing or body etc. We are all different shapes and sizes, which plays into the beautiful aesthetics and unique movements found in climbing. But body image is another huge conversation. I think that kind of thought process, where you’re constantly comparing yourself to others, can have negative effects, as I guess with anything in life. But climbing is different as it’s not just about running fast; there are so many contributing elements to making your climbing style unique. It’s quite hard to do that, which is good. I guess my strengths are someone else’s weakness and vice versa.
WOULD YOU SAY YOUR COACHING STYLE DIFFERS FOR MEN AND WOMEN?
The key difference I’ve found is that a lot of women don't know what is available to them or what their goal is. Setting specific goals is really important. If you don’t know what you’re aiming for then I think it can be quite hard to focus on development. Sometimes it involves a change of mindset. I guess men are a bit more to the point in that sense - I can ask “Are you happy, have we achieved something?” and they’ll respond with either a yes or a no. Whereas, I don’t think I’ve ever had a woman say “actually, no”. Rather than explaining they didn’t get what they wanted out of it, women tend to be more polite and grateful for a lovely time. They’re very supportive, but it can be quite hard to pinpoint where development can be made.
Yesterday, I was walking the dog up on the moors and I bumped into a woman that I've coached for a few days. She told me she's paid for a day in advance for when things are back on track – which is very sweet. I told her to have a think about a clear goal for when we get outside to which she was like “can we just have fun?”. Of course, I said yeah, absolutely we can just have fun; but to go out day after day not to develop, whether it's movement or technical skills doesn’t seem very productive.
I said “what about becoming independent?”. And she went “Oh no, I could never be independent and do it on my own”. For me, maybe that is something that I have to address.
Unfortunately, I think that the idea of being independent is something that a lot of women quite often feel uncomfortable with. Perhaps that goes further than just climbing or adrenaline sports, I don’t know. The outdoors in general can feel very male dominated. The feminist in me just wants to do everything that guys can do. Overtime, I have come to acknowledge that actually there are differences that should be celebrated and not frowned upon.
DO YOU HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT THE FUTURE?
Professionally, I’m working towards my Rock Climbing Developmental Instructor award. It’s a new award that the Mountain Training have introduced and see as a stepping stone. It sits between the award I currently have, the Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) and the Winter Climbing and Mountaineering Instructor (MIC). Basically it will allow me to teach people lead climbing. Weirdly, since I’ve been working towards this new qualification I’ve done so much more with my current award. I’ve realised that I hadn’t been maximising my potential at all, as I can really do everything that I want to do apart from put them on the sharp end. I can teach people to lead and get them placing gear; I can coach them through a lot of stuff, I just can’t physically get them lead climbing.
I have considered whether I should be getting a gym instructor type of qualification to improve professionally, but that of course means investing more money in yourself. Eventually I would like to get my level three Gym Instructor, to really compliment my RCDI. It will really help further female climbers when they’re asking me about pull ups and strength training, I can respond with confidence.
One of my friends I climb with is a science teacher and we’re always talking about rock, the geology or whatever. Often when she’s talking she’ll say ‘Oh I think it is…’ or ‘maybe it’s’… even though she knows the answer. Then some guy will comment, saying ‘no it is this actually’ and I can see in her head she’s thinking it’s not, but as he said it with confidence maybe he’s right. Self-doubt kicks in which is bonkers.
For me, although I don’t need them for insurance or anything, having credentials will be good for my own peace of mind. I would like to have the awards to ensure I know that what I’m saying is true. That way, should anybody challenge me I am qualified to tell them otherwise. I know it’s sad, but perhaps it’s linked to the confidence gap, or some theory behind women constantly feeling the need to prove themselves.
IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE?
I think it’s quite important to have goals, not necessarily fixed or permanent but to be clear about what you’re aiming for. Especially to those women getting into or starting their careers. It’s the same as other sports, people climb for fun and the social elements but if you’re looking to improve you have to have a direction. Climbing walls often lend themselves as a space for having fun, but women are certainly capable of so much more. Have some self-belief!
I’m currently trying to get a few new spots graded and a couple of other routes at Anstey’s Cove bolted. Over the summer I’ve taken quite a few women down there who are strong boulderers so I’m trying to introduce them to sport climbing, but it is so hard with the routes. There are a couple of easier ones but I would like to make it more inclusive and create some more. I’ve had some resistance from some of the (old, middle-class, white) men who have told me that people should be getting into climbing the same way they did, by parent taking them out from a young age. You should do however many routes then eventually pluck up the courage to do it on your own. They don’t seem to realise that not everybody has the luxury of those parents or the finance to go out with all the kit. Or some people, believe it or not, don’t want to scare themselves silly on some horrendous trad route. Why must it be so unsafe, unwelcoming and inaccessible? It’s a shame that the attitude is still alive and kicking.
I understand there is also a risk element. A lot of the women I took down over the summer wanted to have a nice day and learn a little bit, but primarily wanted to have fun avoiding risk. It doesn’t really accommodate that down there at the moment. So I have taken that to the BMC regional meeting and will be trying to organise a bolt gun. Hopefully I can put a few new lines up, around a 6A and a 6A+, to support some more progressive climbers. It also removes a bit of the risk that’s associated with climbing.
TORI IS A FREELANCE OUTDOOR INSTRUCTOR. TO GET IN CONTACT WITH HER AND FIND OUT ABOUT BOOKING A CLIMBING SESSION SEE WEST COUNTRY ADVENTURES OR DROP HER AN EMAIL.
THE FULL ARTICLE IS AVAILABLE TO READ IN OUTSIDERS: HER STORIES. FIND OUT MORE ABOUT BUYING YOUR OWN COPY, OR FOR MORE INFORMATION FEEL FREE TO GET IN TOUCH.